Mysore is a connecting place, social entrepreneurs, community animateurs are forever initiating new ideas to bring us together.
Sriranjini Simha kindly invited me to experience mysore. Well I have been doing that for twenty years, initially on holidays and now as resident with our own business. But joking aside this was an invite to a new initiative that is actually called ‘Experience Mysuru’ and I’m so pleased I checked it out.
I’ve always thought that the Mysore city feels more like a village, by that I mean : it has an intimacy, interactivity, on a human scale. Well ‘Experience Mysuru’ reflects exactly that. Mysore has a well deserved reputation as a cultural capital that was fantastically represented last night..
The ‘showcase’ was curated to reveal through the senses of taste, hearing, smell, touch and sight and included: yoga and meditation, ancient board games, percussion, storytelling, dance, music and singing. To be more precise — Chande: the pulse of Karavali, Bharatanatyam, Carnatic music and Kamsale— come find out for yourselves what it is.
I can’t say performers, yes they shared, their skills, they entertained but it went beyond that. Each person introduced their activity to ‘get beneath the skin’ they fitted all this in to just 120 minutes and it was not crammed. It was exactly right, the timing, the diversity, the interactive-ness, the rich content, their expertise, I’ve got to know Mysore a bit over the years but this brought me to so many new layers and levels.
Well done team, we’re rightly proud of our heritage and this was a great way to share with young and old, local and not so local, and I’ll be back..
Who is this guy, who pops up everywhere? An active entrepreneur who’s become a good friend. Great to catch up with established and meet new friends.
Thank you Kim Kanchana Ganga, Tanushri SN, Shrimathi and her team, Pranav Athrey’s-Pranav Athreya, Suraksha Dixit, Tejashri Murphy, Pushpa and her team… plus the managers and organisers behind the scenes that put it all together and made it go so smoothly…..
After a cycle tour I sometimes meander (MAnjula would call it a ‘rounding’ ) through the countryside exploring new places.
After today’s tour with Anni and Sankar I passed through Channahalli, one of my favourite villages, rediscovering another trail only to stumble across newly painted sculptures.
Crazy colours which usually seem to be the original stone colour, they caught my eye.
They’re ‘hero’ stones often a strip of three images. The hero in battle, the celebration afterwards and Pooja to god, usually shiva.
Our most popular cycle tour is on Srirangaptnam, the capital of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu’s empire for forty years until 1799.
Tipu’s Summer palace is his wonderful guest house on the island. It’s beautifully painted carved wood with fascinating murals of the second war of Mysore. One of our most regular guests Anna took these great 👍🏽 photos on a recent visit.
previously photographs were not allowed.
After the cycle tour many guests stay on island for lunch and to visit the palace.
I’d gone into the city for one of the endless visits to the city corporation (more of that later) then diverted to buy flowers in the Market. These will traditionally float in water in the brass Urli bowl beneath Madam’s photo and garland to go the photos themselves in each of our two halls (aka lounge or living room).
In the city were so many local women in sari’s going about their business, it reminded me of Manjula and how she connected me to so many aspects of life here. It brought a tear to my eye, not that that’s unusual.
I’d passed the iconic Lansdown building that has now been waiting years for a decision of whether they will renovate or demolish and rebuild. There’s no prize for guessing which the politicians in cahoots with the developers would prefer and why.
Lansdown Building
Then the day began to turn.
Not the hotel, it’s another angle of the Lansdown building.
I went to a favourite ‘hotel’ (aka cafe) the Indra Paras, the owners son, manning the cash desk and the waiters all recognised and acknowledged me, creating a good feeling as I ate my Masala Dosa and Sev Dahi Potato Puri (crispy hollow puri balls, filled with a mix of crunchy, yoghurt, potato and a tinge of sweet) another favourite.
Then I squeezed past the guys selling clothing and material on the pavement and round the corner to the fruit salad, ice cream and traditional juices shop for my regular sarsaparilla and soda. Again the guys at the shop all asked how I’d been and wondered if I’d just come back. No I’ve been at home here in Mysore for two years, gifting me another warm vibe.
Then the usual, trying to find an auto with a working meter, after rejecting one and hanging about aimlessly by the roadside a guy hailed my as his friend stepped out from sharing the front bench seat.
The driver knew me, and Vasanth, and had taken many of our guests back home to the BnB. He’s friend couldn’t quite place me.
“It’s the cycle man”
I’m nothing to do with this which, just happened to be there, and represents the usual Indian randomness
So I pulled down my mask and he remembered me from nine years before when Vinay and I had started the cycle tours and he knew of our base at the Palace Plaza Hotel.
So a bittersweet mix, of missing Manjula and realising how she critically helped me adjust to my adopted city through re-connecting with people and sharing memories.
Tipu is of course the Sultan who’s capital was at Srirangipatnam, featured on our most popular cycle tour, our cycle tour guests know much of him and the links back to Europe and the USA. He’s a great example of how military leaders have a mixed reputation. He did some great things and some not so great.
But how cool is this?
Jim and Riki, recent guests were at a presentation in Cambridge, UK recently by Ursula Sims-Williams (Lead Curator, Persian Collections, British Library). Check her blog for more info about Tipu… here and here