Whoopeeeeeee
and this is what it means in practice…..
[What’s in a Name no 8].
this feels like an enormous achievement but we’re not there yet!
Category: Life in India
It’s taken me over.
What’s happening to me?
Am I getting too old? ill with something? falling apart? why can’t I motivate myself? It’s so difficult to get things done.
It’s reappeared
It must be Summer again.
Have I always been like this or is it a new phenomenon? has anything changed in my life to lead to this? Maybe its ……
Lethargy air
I remember back to earlier last year.
I’d only been back here a few weeks after a short trip to the UK. On getting back I hit a wall of hot thick air. It’s like transparent foam and possible to walk into but not quite through. You have to breath it in. There’s no choice.
People who visit here, worry about a whole set of things. Malaria, Dengue fever, being ripped off, attacks from dogs, the price of food, chain snatchers, you name it, we all worry…. but I reckon one of the most insidious things is lethargy air.
It’s getting worse but most guests miss it as they choose to be here in the winter.
So what is happening in Mysore?
I’ve lived here for over six years. Surely I’m used to it by now. Fact is…. Summer arrives earlier every year. Mysore is known for a wonderful climate throughout the year. But whereas summer used to arrive in April, the past two years saw it arrive in March and this year it was upon us in Feb! It’s a combination of a busier city (hip hip hooray for development), climate change and someone called Nino.
Now, this year, in March we’re in the mid to late 30’s
So be aware. It may come to your street soon.
Lethargy Air can hit at any time. But the mid afternoon is the high point. One feebly starts with a vague list of things to achieve and if today is anything to go by, within two hours it becomes a mental struggle to place one foot in front of another. I’m walking in treacle. Of course, I exaggerate but not by much.
There is a lasting impact from the day before and the overnight tussle with the air, dogs and sleep.
I think I just need a rest
Almost all good intentions fly swiftly out of the window. With a combination of lethargy air and ‘things never quite get delivered as promised’ syndrome well not a lot gets done. It’s no accident that one often feels that the term mañana is so much better suited to Mysore than Spain. Tomorrow just never arrives. Maybe
Maybe it’s just time for a beer!
and I can’t really believe I’m saying this but maybe it’s also time for a bit of English Air!
its the people that make it!
Mysore Bed and Breakfast is very much an open house, where we have now welcomed guests for over four years. A great community is beginning to develop. It’s formed from our guests, many who have returned or know of us through other friends, together with out team of drivers, gardener, cleaners, the hosts (Manjula, Lucy and the Yorkshireman) . There is also a network of other friends such as Homestay hosts and tour companies that collaborate to provide a great experience for visitors to this wonderful India. This helps create a richer life experience for us (eh… we don’t need to travel, the world comes here 🙂 !) and a greater depth for our visitors.
We’ve decided to introduce some of our community beginning with one of our guests.
Stephen F (a different Stephen F 😉 ) is a keen touring cyclist who has been to Mysore BnB maybe three times. He’s even left one of this cycles here for regular use! Originally from Northern Ireland he now lives in England and works as a communications consultant. Stephen goes way beyond the cycle tours we provide. He recently visited again doing a cycle loop travelling from here and taking in the National Parks. Previously he’s toured parts of Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. On his first visit here we were amazed to realise we’d spoken to each other over the phone earlier in our careers in the early 1990s…. the coincidences of India, great stuff!
He’s just bought a rather expensive cycle and whenever we’ve had prospective guests planning on long and overnight tours we ask for Stephen’s help, whether its planning the tour, working out the best maps, finding suitable accommodation or general survival tips on cycling in India. Stephen has been a godsend. He now joins and has helped organise our family cycle tours back in the UK.
Stephen, as you would expect, has been on all our tours. Stephen and I have now started to develop longer tours taking in the local countryside, villages and my favourite, Srirangaptnam island.
See the map below.
Other cycling guests are also suggesting their favourite tours.
So this next year we’ll be inviting cyclists to come base their holidays here, join us on our established tours and we’ll help them design day tours in and around this wonderful area
Thank you, Stephen
can we apply for a passport please?
What’s in a name? is it lucky No 7?
Ducks in a row?
Well, yes… well, we almost have gathered together all the relevant forms of ID so we are ready to dive into the duck pond! there is just one more thing to do before we can submit the application on-line.
It’s to visit an advocate for Manjula to sign an affidavit declaring who she is and hasn’t any criminal record etc etc.
if they accept this at the Passport office it will speed things up considerably as the police verification visit can then be AFTER the issuing of the Passport
We’ve also had to make some momentous decisions which we will share at a future date!
We find a very helpful advocate and the document is signed. We’re ready..
You’ve asked for more detail
What’s in a name 6B?
Well, we seem to have ‘hit a chord’ with our imaginary board game. There has been interest via facebook, our web site and directly to our blog. Here’s a little more detail to satisfy your thirst. Rememeber, we’re doing this to get a passport!
PAN Card
We shoot ahead with this one! Maybe it’s not exactly playing the game but we did apply in advance, almost as a ‘dry-run.’
The PAN card is a registration to pay tax and is useful, amongst other things, to prove one’s name.
The Aadhar Card is the Indian name for the ID card, now becoming familiar the world over.
It works as a universal ID to help access a whole range of services. Based on biometrics (really?) it’s invaluable BUT… in Manjula’s case, she was listed as a male, name was incorrect and it was an old address. (no comment) So there needed to be significant changes (really!).
What is cool about this system is, it’s all amendable online: no brokers (aka middlemen), no need to visit offices nor queing. Absolutely fab! Requests to amend the details are submitted online. Updates are dealt with at a contact centre and confirmed or rejected via Email and SMS (text) At this stage, I’m overcome with serious enthusiasm.
I register with the system. (as Manjula of course… your wouldn’t believe how much her reading and computer skills have really, come-on 😉 )
I amend everything ALL at once. BIG BIG mistake. ALL rejected. Now then Stephen, listen up, less of the ‘bull in a China shop’ or ‘at a gate?’ go at it a little more gently.. Shanti Shanti. OK, so I submit the changes one by one, waiting each time for the confirmation of success before trying the next.
Sorted! Big achievements all round.
Quackety Quack
But next, we need proof of her address to show she has lived a for over a year at Moksha ‘Manor.’ An accepted way to do this is a bank account.
A stroke of luck.
I opened an account for Manjula years ago. With a couple of changes, a passbook newly printed off, her photo added together with a print off of the transactions of the previous year, a letter from the bank manager with a stamped photo of Manjula and Ducks away!
and finally, (I’m joking.. its not finally, stay with us guys) we need evidence of her Date of Birth.
In a traditionally informal society, such as this and especially for those people from a poor background, they would generally, not have a birth certificate. Evidence of their age and date of birth would therefore usually come from the school leaving or transfer certificate.
We’d first obtained it as part of the PAN process but needed to get it re-issued. sorted easily.
There’s another Donald Duck!
So we now have formal evidence of Manjula’s name, gender, image, her father’s name, her date of birth, age, and address (for over a year).
You might feel a bit exhausted just hearing the story.
I can assure you it’s been quite an ordeal just getting to this stage.
In real time (ie not blog time) it has taken months!
We’re now in a position to apply online for a passport…… What does the future hold?
What’s in a name 6
All we want is a passport, so Manjula can visit the UK. Is that too much to ask?
Well it feels so much like a board game we’ve created our own. Looks complicated? Well it is!
We’ve had to find four items of ID to prove:
image
name
gender
address
date of birth
and ensure they are all accurate and consistent (no mean feat).
Move down each vertical line to realise each of the things we’ve had to complete. Sometimes we’ve had to create something from scratch, with others we’ve amended most of the key details, with others, well we’ve been running alongside Alice for some of the way and no were not mad, yet!
This is however, only part of the journey and until we’d got all these forms of ID we were unable to submit the application for Manjula’s passport. Well we’ve passed another significant milestone and we are now ready to apply.
Imagine you are a poor illiterate person. Admittedly, if you’re poor, you’ll be less likely to require a passport, but that’s to miss the point. I reckon most people would find this intimidating. Bureaucracy seems to be designed to hinder people and not to help. When you understand the complexity of something that should be relatively simple you can see how disabling this is and how ‘brokers’ are so necessary in life. All this causes stress ( I can vouch for that) and money!!
we’re getting closer to the passport application…
what’s in a name? No 5
to apply for the passport, we now need to gather various forms of ID but here is a stroke of luck. There is a quicker way to get a passport, known as TADKAL. Unfortunately, Manjula can’t apply under this scheme as you need to get a letter of support from a senior civil servant ( a way of institutionalising, it’s who you know!) and we don’t know one. However, the Government minister has recently announced a way to apply for a passport which is a sort of half-way-house. If Manjula has the correct ID and a signed affidavit she can speed up the process, get the passport quicker as a visit from the police would be held AFTER it’s issued. fab!
Why tell Manjula’s story?
Manjula’s Story
Manjula is from a poor background.
Her poverty, family instability and the consequences of being a woman in a patriarchal society are not atypical. She has shown great determination, fortitude, even stoicism. It’s a common story for Indian women (and men) coming from difficult backgrounds and managing to survive through challenging life circumstances.
Manjula’s story helps illuminate what life is like for so many people living in contemporary India. There maybe, explosive growth of the economy and with it the middle classes – we can see the evidence in many ways – higher disposable income, spare money sloshing around, leisure holidays, the shift to the cities, flash cars, house dogs, you name it, it’s here.
But as with everywhere else in the world, probably more so here, in India, the rich and poor have traditionally lived ‘cheek by jowl’ yet as the economy grows people are left out and left behind. The distance between the rich and poor actually becomes greater. There is always the risk that their story is not told nor realised, their needs forgotten, a myopia of the modern age.
Manjula’s fortunes, have changed, she has seized the opportunity of running Mysore Bed and Breakfast and in many, ways she not only survives but thrives. So, she’s sort-of-moved-on but is still a bridge between those different worlds and hence provides invaluable insights. I, therefore, believe it’s all the more critical that we share her story, her experiences and her world.
Of course, I’m in no way, biased. She is, of course, a beautiful woman of great character, with wonderful beguiling wit combined with an astonishing tolerance and resourcefulness….
The story shared through this site, comes from recordings she has made, the tales she tells me and our shared experiences since I came to live in Mysore six years ago when I first met Manjula.
…. do join us on our journey.
And they came in threes..
or, what’s in a name? part 4
We have a result! We’re excited to have reached the first stage in our journey to get a passport for Manjula. The PAN card (registration to pay tax has arrived). Coincidentally, I’ve also got mine and one for the business. So what next?
Horse Riding in Mysore
I sometimes think that Vasanth, who I first met ten years ago and now co-ordinates our transport, used to dread my return trips to Mysore. I’d often arrive with an idea for a new project. One such project was my interest in horse riding. It actually lasted a few trips. We searched far and wide for opportunities for me to go horse riding. Vasanth was convinced we’d get nowhere. I was beginning to believe him. He found tourist horse riding trips in Srirangaptnam, nope not my ‘cup of tea’, we even visited the stables at the horse race course. Nothing! I was sure, there had to be something.
Then one day, we had one of those typical India experiences. I was leaning over a garden wall admiring a small traditional Mysore house. The lady came out and we got chatting. I complemented her on the house and garden, as you would, and happened to mention our search for horse riding.
” Oh” she said,”you should go meet my father, he’ll be able to help.” He was an officer in the Mounted Police. Well, sharpish we headed down there and tentatively entered the grand horse-shoe-shaped archway entrance and result! our project was a complete success.
it works out that the Riding School of Mysore was with the mounted police. I kid you not! After a meet with the Commandant I became a visiting member.
It worked like this:
if you wanted a ride that morning, a member would go to the horse exercising and practice fields before 6am
It would still be dark but one could hear the movement of men and horses, with snorts and neighs…. As the darkness was broken by sun rise and any mist began to lift, there were up to 50 men and horses lined up on parade. The officer on duty would check all his men were in line and in horsey attention, then ride and report to the commandant, who by now had arrived and was smartly facing his men. The officer reported on who was and wasn’t there and the plans for the day.
Impressive!
Once the ritual of being ‘on parade’ was completed Commandant Shetty would turn to whoever had arrived from the ‘Riding School’ and after a short ‘how are you?’ informal sort of conversation, would call over sufficient men to give up their horses for the members of the ‘School’ waiting there.
It was absolutely amazing. Who would have believed it possible to go borrow mounted police and horses to go riding in a morning. If just one person had turned up, more often than not, you’d do left to your own devices to ride your horse alone in one of the fields. Otherwise a policeman might lead you in an improvised lesson.
I subsequently discovered that many locals learned to ride in exactly this way.
One of the many unique ways of life in the city I would later adopt and move to.
I was reminded of all this on reading this article about …..
Me and MYCycle 